17.8.20

Life after lockdown

We have been out of confinement for almost  three months now. In July we got back into the rhythmn, with a steady flow of local tourists, an astonishing number in fact, everyone in Tahiti was itching to get out, but not able or willing to go outside French Polynesia. 
 
And even in June we were busy enough with various other projects: an official government visit (just days after lockdown was lifted and inter-island flights opened, the entire government flew to Rurutu for the day and gave us all big hugs and kisses, Polynesian habits die hard!), we've also been getting to grips with our sawmill, hosting a poi-making competition to help compensate for the lack of a heiva, horse-racing (Rea won again easily!) and I've even been enlisted as a local correspondant for a newspaper in Tahiti, hilariously enough writting in French! My editor has his work cut out for him.
Lockdown is a hazy memory, however, with international flights open since July 15, Tahiti has been receiving both European and American tourists, quarantine has been cancelled and the arriving tourists are required to test negative 3 days before leaving and to use a self-test kit 4 days into  their stay (though the incubation period is in fact 14 days)! Surprise, surprise there is a new outbreak of Covid on Tahiti and it's highly likely it has already reached many of the other islands, there's a potential outbreak in the Marquesas. The threat of Covid is once again quite real here, though it is worth pointing out that we are lucky enough not to have had any deaths yet. In response to the new outbreak (already at least 130 cases, including an American tourist on the Gauguin cruiseship that was supposedly a "locals only" cruise) masks have been made obligatory in all public areas, including stores, schools, hotels, guesthouses and church, and school transport! This morning certain schools in Tahiti have been closed, after students were tested positive over the weekend.
 
The biggest clusters were due to a big party at a restaurant in Tahiti in late July, where no social distancing measures were in place, attended by an infected primary school-teacher just arrived from France. This resulted in both policemen and hospital personnel getting infected, causing a couple more clusters. Working with tourists we are more exposed than many, so we're going to have to just get used to wearing masks and socially distancing ! 

All this drama has made Heimana's high-school debut pale into insignificance, though Matotea still can't quite believe she's going to have to share the space with her sister. It's going to be a rough year for us all! Amai, however, seems quite pleased to be going to primary school all on his own now...






26.5.20

Officially out of confinement!

We are officially 'free' again, and can timidly venture out onto the beach, social distancing is still encouraged of course!

The population of French Polynesia is now said to be Covid-free. The kids are al back at school full-time (this was less well received, we like two-day school weeks!). Oh well, will just have to eat those taro scones all by myself...
There have been no further Covid positive-tested individuals in Tahiti since last week, bringing the grand total number of cases to 60. All the recent cases have been people already in quarantine (i.e. arrived from elsewhere since lockdown). However, the very same day that our official Covid counter struck 0, an Ecuadorian fishing boat radioed in, wanting to anchor in the Marquesas, it turns out 29 of the 30 crew are Covid positive; one of them in particular is suffering with severe respiratory problems and has been air-lifted to hospital in Tahiti and is being kept in isolation! So, we can all circulate freely, but having so efficiently kept the disease at bay, we still remain vulnerable and concerned. Difficult to imagine international flights starting up again, though supposedly it will happen in July, under increasing pressure from the local airlines and hotel companies. International tourism does respresent well over 10% of our GDP, not to mention all the other economic activites that depend on tourist money (arts and crafts, pearls, agriculture, fishing etc.).
Amusingly enough our President has been talking about promoting agriculture and a more sustainable economy. A surprisingly pro-independence stance, in a country where dependancy on European/French imports and financial assistance has always been encouraged; the value of imports exceeded exports by 45:1in 2018!
This change of heart may have something to do with the French government, in great financial difficulty itself, limiting the amount of financial aid available. Whatever the motivation, it can only be a positive step for an island nation like ours, brimming with natural resources. Like many, I hope that this crisis will allow us to more clearly set a course for a more sustainable future... On our side of things, we are also setting a new course. The crisis, while difficult for us financially, arrives just as we are moving forward with our sawmill project. After a good while stuck on Tahiti's dock, Viriamu's new toy has just arrived! More about our adventures in sawmilling to follow...

It's exciting and hopefully it will help us be more self-reliant: tourism is all well and good, but it needs to go hand in hand with the development of renewable economic resources, this is not the first crisis in the tourist industry that we have experienced, but it's definitely the worst.
Lockdown has inspired many Polynesians to turn back towards traditional crops, like taro.
Here's just hoping that the President's words are genuine and that the country will continue in this direction...even when Covid is behind us...

20.4.20

Cabin Fever!

We've now been in confinement for a month on Rurutu, and several batches of cookies, some coconut bread, more macaroons (in lieu of Easter eggs), taro scones, chocolate fudge cake later we're running out of ideas and flour! We're also two weeks into home-schooling. I won't lie, it's been lovely having the kids at home with no work commitments, they've been helping dad with the earth oven for Sunday. Here Amai's making taro tiromi to be cooked in the oven.But there is a lack of motivation on the schoolwork front here, and the social aspect is tough on all three of them.
We're ready to get out and about, all the more because there hasn't actually been a single case of Covid-19 officially recorded here on island. Consequently, the decision is in, as of today, we have a little bit more freedom, the kids can gradually go back to school, just to work on their homework and catch up with friends for a day or two a week. We can come and go rather more freely than before and even the alcohol ban has been lifted. No likelihood yet that flights between islands will be restored; Tahiti still has a handful of cases, there have only been three the last week, but they are still there... So this may just be a temporary reprieve! Then we'll have to try to deal with the aftermath, it may be a good deal tougher on us than the confinement! I'm guessing the whales will enjoy a peaceful time of it this  year...






27.3.20

Strange Times

 Even here in Rurutu we cannot escape the Covid-19 pandemic. Currently there are no official cases, but there have been several in Tahiti, thankfully no deaths so far. The first official case recorded was one of our deputies at the French National assembly, who is thought to have caught it from a French Minister! She is now recovering well, but managed to infect a tourist on the same flight as her, and there have been a couple of other cases just starting to show up. Currently there are 30 cases in French Polynesia (but it is likely to climb over the next few days after our first week in confinement), only one requires hospital care, but all non-residents are being refused entry and Air Tahiti Nui are stopping all international flights for at least a month as of Saturday. There are no commercial flights from Tahiti to the outer islands, so in theory if it hasn't already got here, we should be safe! We are nevertheless all confined to barracks for at least the next two weeks, more likely a month or more, depending on how things develop. It's pretty drastic, but it definitely could stop the epidemic in its tracks here, we are very grateful for that. Maybe one advantage of living on an island is that we are more or less in natural quaratine from the rest of the world, though once the virus gets here it could easily spread!

On the economic front it's disastrous. We, like many here in French Polynesia and elsewhere in the world, are left without guests or income for the forseeable future, and even my translation work is on hold, as the airlines themselves face a truly difficult moment and the magazines' release dates have been indefinitely suspended. The next few months will be a difficult time for all of us. But at least we are all healthy, this is an opportunity to count our blessings and take time for ourselves and our families, something that we rarely have time for otherwise! There are definitely worse places to be confined...

We wouldn't choose the enforced holidays, but we are lucky to have a garden and space for the kids to play. We're trying to make the best of it, and it's given us time to do some cooking (we've been baking our way through confinement with coconut retia, chicken samosas, brioche, custard tart, breadufruit homefries and chocolate chip cookies). The only problem is that there is no more flour in the stores (we're probably not the only ones baking to pass the time here on Rurutu!). Again we are grateful that we actually have food in abundance: coconuts in the garden, bananas, papayas, breadfruit, fish in the sea and taro or tapioca, so we aren't going to starve, life is indeed kind to us in the tropical Pacific.

Our hearts go out to all those in the medical profession, fighting on the front-lines, particularly in Europe, three doctors have already been among the victims of coronavirus in France, with almost 2,000 recorded deaths already. We are thinking of all those out there suffering the effects of the virus and its economic fallout. Keep safe, wash your hands and stay at home as much as possible!

24.2.20

Everything A'a

Today Cécile's documentary was aired on French Polynesian national television, a few weeks after being screened at the FIFO (Oceania's International Film Festival held in Tahiti) along with another documentary about Rurutu weddings, so there's a lot of buzz around at the moment. There is even a stamp that came out in December. Our association's article about Julie's visit in November is also currently featured in the January edition of the Air Tahiti Magazine! A'a is everywhere...there was even a Christmas card (alright I made that one myself :)





12.12.19

Fruitful

A few weeks ago it was harvest festival time, Thanksgiving in the US. Here, however, the season of plenty has begun. This year the trees are dripping with lychees, and even mangoes are plentiful! The lychee season actually causes chaos, tons of lychees are shipped to Tahiti, by airfreight or boat. Boxes and boxes, hours and hours queueing to send airfreight at the airport!

The upsode, while I don't usually have mangoes to spare, this year I've even been making mango tarte tatin, I usually use pineapple, but mango makes a very passable alternative, especially served with coconut ice-cream! 



13.11.19

Julie's visit

The November holidays were an exciting time for us. We were lucky enough to have Julie Adams visiting us, curator of Oceanian objects at the British Museum. She was invited to Rurutu by our association Te Aru Ora, and sponsored by Air Tahiti. She made the detour whilst in the Pacific, after spending several weeks in New Zealand, as part of the events marking the 250 years of contact between Europeans and Maori. She was specifically involved in preparing an exhibition of taonga (ancient sacred objects), some of which were collected by Cook's expeditions, at the Tairawhiti Museum in Gisborne (take a look at the exhibition). Is seems like a very appropriate way to celebrate the event to me.
We have been in contact for several years, Julie was responsible for organizing the A'a Object in Focus exhibition back in 2016, and since then we've often talked about trying to meet. Finally it happened! She is also working with the Museum de Tahiti et des Iles on various projects. We're hoping that one of them might just bring A'a back to French Polynesia for a while.

Whilst in Rurutu she gave a short talk about some of the Austral Islands objects that can be found in British museums, it was a fascinating opportunity for many Rurutu to see images of the objects and talk about their incredible cultural heritage. Of course A'a was a focus, but there are lots of other amazing objects, including shell necklaces made with cords of finely woven hair...

...and this amazing stool/headrest that is most likely from the Australs.

We even got to see the piece of tapa that the Endeavour's crew obtained while it was anchored off Rurutu in 1769.

12.11.19

November holidays

The school holidays have already been and gone, in a flash! Poor old Amai was picking Tahitian gooseberries and fell off the stepladder the week before the holidays, partially fracturing his wrist. It's the first broken bone that we've had here, I'm amazed to say.
It's just been strapped up, and while he's not really easily able to write and draw, it doesn't seem to be slowing him down too much...

The whales also have moved on, so the season is coming to a close for us. A welcome break, before the end of year festivities.

11.11.19

In Memoriam

It is November 11th, Armistice day, a celebration of the end of World War I and a moment to remember all those who lost their lives in the Great Wars. I sadly never got to meet my grandfather, but one of the few things I know about him is that he fought in WWI and was decorated for bravery, we have this magnificent picture of him on horseback taken in 1915. However, I know little more than this, unsurprisingly he never really talked about the experience to my father. I also think of the other young men who never returned. Their futures brutally taken away from them, like the Welsh poet Hedd Wyn (born Ellis Evans), who was posthumously awarded the bard's chair (highest accolade for Welsh poetry) at the 1917 Eisteddfod, or Wilfred Owen the talented war poet who died in 1918, who wrote about the horrors of war:

             Anthem for Doomed Youth

             What passing-bells for these who die as cattle?
             Only the monstrous anger of the guns.
             Only the stuttering rifles' rapid rattle
             Can patter out their hasty orisons.
             No mockeries now for them; no prayers nor bells,
             Nor any voice of mourning save the choirs, -
             The shrill, demented choirs of wailing shells;
             And bugles calling for them from sad shires.

            What candles may be held to speed them all?
            Not in the hands of boys, but in their eyes
            Shall shine the holy glimmers of goodbyes.
            The pallor of girls' brows shall be their pall;
            Their flowers the tenderness of patient minds,
           And each slow dusk a drawing down of blinds.

                                                                Wilfrid Owen 

13.10.19

The big 5-0


Viriamu and Matotea are celebrating their almost-birthdays today, Viriamu will be entering a new decade and Matotea will officially be a teenager. We have guests on their actual big days, tonight we have a night "off", the first and only one for some time yet! So it's time to celebrate! Chinese take-out for the kids, and a big fat paru nohu (Large-headed Scorpionfish) with salted limes for Viriamu, delicious! Oh, as well as a cake and some Rurutu strawberry tarts for good measure!

13.8.19

Remembering

250 years to the day, the HMS Endeavour sailed down the coastline of Rurutu, but finding the anchorage poor, the pass and sea conditions dangerous and the inhabitants fierce, they did not actually go ashore.

They were, however, impressed by the wood carving on the canoes they saw as well as the patterned and dyed tapa. After some brief trading from the boat they continued on New Zealand bound... Like the fleet of voyaging canoes that will be descending on New Zealand, including the Fa'afaite (our Tahitian voyaging canoe), as part of the encounter commemorations there (Tuia 250) starting in October.
Here Cook remains a little known personality and the encounter has not marked the population in
the same way as the arrival of Protestant missionnaries in 1821, for example. However, it has been marked by a small exhibition of first day covers at the post office organized by our friend Alain! We even got some commemorative stamps.